Around Taiwan - Day 11 - Ilan ~ Keelung

The eleventh installment on my "Cycling Around Taiwan" series. Day 11 would see the end of the unknown for me the start of the known. I have previously ridden from Fulong to Keelung (see Rain Riding to Fulong and Back) and also from Keelung to Tamsui (see Cycle Trip to Tamsui, Via Keelung) so I knew what those roads had in store for me. The weather was still holding out (no rain) so was looking forward to a hot ride to Keelung. Day 11 would also prove to be one of the more dangerous roads of the whole trip, but also, I would get to enjoy the scenery far more than I did that time before.

North East Coast

The Route

The second last day of the trip would be a 99km ride from Yilan, along the coast, past Toucheng, Daxi, Dali, Fulong all the way up to Keelung. I stuck as close to the coast as possible. It was a hot day but a good ride nonetheless.

Leaving Yilan

Getting out of Yilan was easy enough. I did get a little lost in the beginning but soon found my bearings and headed back down Route 7 to Route 2 so I could head North up to Toucheng, Fulong and beyond. As on Day 10 before, most of the ride back down to Route 2 was spent riding next to beautiful green rice paddies. It was a hot day with the sun shining brightly so I knew I would be drinking a lot of water again and using a lot of sun tan lotion. Just before getting back onto Route 2 I found a breakfast shop on Route 11, I wolfed down some egg rolls, had some ice tea and then got on my bike and headed for Keelung.

Rice Paddies outside Yilan

Riding to Fulong

The ride to Toucheng was uneventful, hot, but uneventful. Riding past Toucheng there is a beautiful beach with a great view of Turtle Island. There was a coffee shop with some chairs outside where people could take a break and enjoy the view. I did stop for a while and also saw a couple of fishing boats on the sea. It was a good place to mellow out for a bit before riding North. Unfortunately it was very hazy so getting a clear images of Turtle Island wasn't possible. 

Turtle Island

Fishing Boats

Continuing up from Toucheng the road narrows out significantly and became dangerous I thought. Since it was a narrow, flat, straight road buses and trucks would just race through with scant regard for anybody or anything else on the road so I made sure I kept very close to the side of the road.

Narrow Road North

Of course the road North continued to present some beautiful views of the Ocean ad some tremendous views of the little towns we passed through. It was also nice to see the coastal railway and I can only imagine how beautiful it must be on those trains.

Beautiful Coast Line

Coastal Town and Railway

Downed Motorcyclist

The ride from Toucheng up to Fulong was fairly uneventful until I reached Dali. Shortly after a small stop in Dali for water, I was back on the road and heading to Fulong. I looked across the road and saw this motorcyclist lying on the floor in clear distress with his bike on the floor. I stopped my bicycle, crossed the road and went to see if the guy needed some help. Basically the guy couldn't walk, he had bad road rashes on his knee, his hip, his arms. I helped pick the bike up and then I noticed a truck stop about 50m behind me. I helped the guy walk over to the truck stop where I got the guys there to call an ambulance. I asked the guy what happened and he said he was going too fast along the road and hit a dip in the road and was bounced off his bike. I noticed there was a bandaged wound on the guy's other arm and asked him what happened, he said he was just in another accident a few days before.

The most amazing thing to me was this guy was lying on the floor in pain. The guys in the truck stop saw him and countless other cars saw him and I was the only one the stopped to help him. It is very frustrating in Taiwan that people don't want to help people in distress. It is part culture and part being stupid but if people are in distress I guess I will always stop to help.

Into Fulong

Map of Cycling Trail to Fulong

Ironically, from that point on, and for quite some distance past Fulong, the road became incredibly safe because there was a clearly demarcated cycling road. A small part of the road separated from the other part of the road by a physical barrier, purely for cyclists. It was great and a fantastic idea by the local government. Along the cycling trail there were also many great spots to stop and enjoy the scenery along the coast.

View South

The cycling trail sometime deviates from the main road down along the coast and brings you closer to the sea. I could see Fulong in the distance and was eager to get there and eat my lunch and then ride beyond Keelung, to Tamsui and home the next day. Riding along the cycling trail brings you next to some old, interesting buildings and also the temple just before getting into the center of Fulong where I would have lunch and then head North to Keelung.

Stone House

Fulong Temple

This Guy was Riding Around Taiwan (his 3rd Day)

Heading North to Keelung

Leaving Fulong meant I was on known roads. I have previously ridden from Fulong to Keelung and back to Taipei so the road was familiar. However the only time I have ever done this ride was done too quickly to really see the view. At that time I met a group of people who were riding around Taiwan and they invited me to ride with them so I did. They were, however, riding at pace, unlike me who rides to enjoy the scenery. They stopped only for three pictures along the way and it turned out, on that day, I was the slowest into Keelung.

It turns out that since then some of the scenery close to Fulong has changed a little bit: the addition of a nuclear power plant certainly changes the way a part of the road looks. Once again, it is the price of development.

Nuclear Power Plant

The road up to Keelung is beautiful. The first things you notice and enjoy are the small fishing towns along the road. They are quaint and seem to have their own vibe too: very relaxed, calm and quiet. I just continued to follow the roads enjoying the sun and realizing my trip was drawing to an end soon. Still had a day and a half left but I was already sorry it was ending and couldn't believe how far I had already come.

Fishing Boats

Roadside Town

Fishing Boats

Coastal View

The Beautiful North East Coastal Highway

There is a part of Taiwan that is so stunningly beautiful it always takes my breath away: the North East Coastal Highway. The road is fairly flat but there are tremendous views of the mountains right up against the sea. I have been on this road many times in a car and once on a bike. The first time on a bike I was going too fast to actually appreciate it AND it was raining and getting dark. This is the first time I have enjoyed it in the sunshine on my bike and it is worth it. It is stunning!

Beautiful North East Coastal View - Looking South

Part of the challenge of this road is keeping it protected from rock falls and landslides. One way of doing this is by putting nets up against the cliff face that prevent rocks from falling directly onto the road. Riding down the road I saw a crew hanging on the edge of the cliff laying the nets.

Installation of Protective Nets

Landslides and rockfalls are real problems along this beautiful stretch of road and there is a lot of evidence of this along the cliff face. YOu can see there has been a landslide in the picture below.

Beautiful North East Coast

One of the protective measures used on the North East Coast are pseudo tunnels that form a protective layer over the road so vehicles can pass through safely. The picture below shows clearly some of the landslide residue on the tunnel that protected the vehicles. Stunning views, but a tough road to keep safe for sure.

Pseudo Tunnel

I loved riding on this part of the road but I would be remiss if I didn't mention the dangers of this road: apart from potential landslides and rockfalls I think the trucks and buses along this road are very dangerous. I thought it was the most dangerous part of the whole trip (including Suhua). The road is flat so there are no limitations on their speed and they come past at speed with little regard for cyclist safety. It is best to let them go by and not really try to race them or stay in front of them.

Shortly before getting into Keelung and close to the mountain near Jiufen we have you come across these old, deserted buildings on the mountains. Not sure what they were but the area used to be a gold mining town so might have something to do with that.

Abandoned Buildings

Getting close to Keelung I also came across a "Bat Crossing" road sign. I have never noticed this sign before and I believe it is the first "Bat Crossing" sign I have ever seen (I cannot recall another). It would be great tobe standing there at night and watch the bats flying across the road. I can only imagine it must be an awesome sight.

Bat Crossing

Keelung

I finally made it into Keelung. The ride from the North East Coastal highway to Keelung was fairly uneventful. I have been to Keelung many times and just meandered along the road until I arrived at Keelung port. I was tired and hot but happy to have made it to Keelung and was looking forward to finding a hotel, settling in and having a good, well deserved dinner. I got there and met some people hanging around the port area and one of the families were friendly and offered to take my picture and even gave me some snacks.

Keelung Bay

Lady in Keelung

After hanging out next to the bay for a bit I went to find a hotel. I found one fairly close to the harbor and settled in for the night. I went out for a walk and decided to go sit near the harbor again as it was so relaxing to watch the boats and the people going by. After that it was my last steak dinner on the road, off to the internet cafe and then to bed.

Naval Vessels in Keelung Harbor

Cute Baby

Cruise Ship in Keelung

The ride from Yilan to Keelung was wonderful. I was happy to be in Keelung and nearly home but I was also sorry that this trip was nearly over. It had been a great trip. I went to bed early again and had an awesome sleep. The next day would be a gentle ride along the North Coast to Tamsui and home!

Other Cycling Round Taiwan Installments

• Around Taiwan - Final Overview
  
• Day 01 - Taipei ~ Hsinchu
• Day 02 - Hsinchu ~ Taichung
• Day 03 - Taichung ~ Budai
• Day 04 - Budai ~ Kaohsiung
• Day 05 - Kaohsiung ~ Kenting
• Day 06 - Kenting ~ Dawu
• Day 07 - Dawu ~ Chenggong
• Day 08 - Chenggong ~ Hualien
• Day 09 - Hualien ~ Suao (Suhua Highway) 
• Day 10 - Suao ~ Ilan  
• Day 11 - Ilan ~ Keelung
• Day 12 - Keelung ~ Taipei