Dad in the East 4: A Grand Tour

Hi All,

(Sunset from the top of 101)

On the third day after their arrival, we took Dad and Yvonne on the usual tourist circuit. We started out at the Chiang Kai Shek memorial hall, headed out to Yong Kang street to eat sushi, went across to Sun Yat Sen Memorial, walked through Hsin Yi district, went to the top of 101 and finished the day off with a steak in our favorite steak restaurant.

Chiang Kai Shek Memorial Hall

(Chiang Kai Shek Memorial)

On the bus to Chiang Kai Shek memorial hall an old Chinese lady got on board. She was incredibly friendly and very excited to meet some foreigners. She couldn’t speak any English, and since Queenie was in the back of the bus, I (Paul) turned into the official translator. The lady was a Christian and very excited to learn that we too are Christians. In the end all she wanted to do was hug Yvonne and she felt they were sisters.

Chiang Kai Shek memorial is grand. Two identical buildings, the National Theater on the right and the National concert hall on the left, flank the memorial. The wide-open space in the front of the hall is also impressive. There were the students practicing their mass dance maneuvers, and the sun was really bright. We watched the students for a long while, walked through the gardens and the parks and went to the museum at the bottom of the memorial.

(Dad and Chiang Kai Shek's Car)

Sadly the memorial hall was being renovated so we could not go up the steps or inside and we could not watch the changing of the guards. Dad and Yvonne enjoyed walking through the museum, which outlines Chiang Kai Shek’s life and contribution to Taiwan. Unfortunately his name is becoming a divisive figure in the Taiwan political landscape and there are moves afoot to change the name of the memorial to Freedom Hall.

The Sushi Express

After spending some time in the museum, we walked up Hsin Yi road to Yong Kang Street where we stopped off in the Sushi Express for lunch. Now although Dad and Yvonne had been real troopers about the food, I think they were starting to long for some good old western fair. Dad’s theory about sushi is that it is a small piece of fish on a big portion of rice only and that when you have a drink, the liquid swells up the rice to make you feel full. But after an hour and a bathroom break you will feel hungry again! We had a good debate about sushi and the need to try different foods but in the end we promised them steak for dinner.

During the meal Yvonne decided to walk around outside and to look at the neighborhood. Unfortunately, as she was doing this she slipped and fell and grazed herself quite badly. She was surprised at how quickly people around her came to her aid. Taiwanese people are like that. Whenever we are in distress they help.

I (Paul) remember the first day I came to Taiwan. I was still trying to find my hostel. I walked into the train station to get directions. The lady I asked couldn’t speak English but I did have the address in Chinese. Within the blink of an eye she grabbed one of my bags, indicated I should follow her, and was gone. She walked me, and my bag all the way to the hostel.

Sun Yat Sen Memorial Hall

(Sun Yat Sen Memorial)

So after we patched up Yvonne’s knee we jumped into the taxi and headed off to Sun Yat Sen Memorial Hall. Once again there is a big garden outside the hall and we spent a considerable time walking around there. Dad of course found a bunch of people to talk to. In this case it was a group of teenage girls. I (Paul) wasn’t with them so I couldn’t translate and Dad said they couldn’t speak English. No matter, Dad still felt great that they tried to communicate with him.

(Dad and his new friends)


(Dad and the Philosopher)

I managed to get a good rest on the island in the middle of the lake. I just lay down on one of the benches and waited for Dad and Yvonne to finish their meanderings through the garden. The gardens are big and they both love the vegetation. It was good for me to relax there. Our lives are always busy and to find moments in time when there is nothing to do is like finding the only pearl in a million oysters.

We finally went into the hall and quite coincidentally ran into the changing of the guards. As it is in most countries the changing of the guards is an impressive routine. This one lasted for ten minutes (approximately) and I am always amazed when I see how they twirl those heavy rifles with one hand. I often think the guards’ wrists will snap off, but of course they never do.

We then meandered across the Hsin Yi district, through the department stores, to 101. On the way we stopped to price some of the clothes and a golf shirt for a man in one shop cost around NTD15,000 (USD500). Fairly expensive but that is the Hsin Yi district for you. Actually I am always amazed at the number of such high-end department stores in Taipei and by the fact that they can survive since they are all so expensive.

101

(101 Reaching for the Sky)

The top of 101 is always exciting. I love going up there and just sitting down and watching the city below. It makes me feel quite at home and reminds me of my first night in Taipei (December 22, 1998) when I went to the top of the Shin Kong Mitsukoshi building, which was then the tallest building in town. The views from 101 are spectacular. The sky was clear enough that we could see the ocean near Tamsui.

(Looking out to Tamsui)


(View from the top of 101)

We also decided to pay the extra money to go onto the outdoor viewing deck. The first time we went there was with Luis, a friend we knew from China. On that occasion there was quite a wind. On the other occasions we have been on the viewing deck the wind was not nearly as strong. Of course there are long, narrow bars with narrow gaps dissuading people from suicide attempts and security guards walking around to make sure no one is trying to jump.

After walking around for some time, we went to watch the movie that shows the building of 101 and then returned to the indoor viewing deck to watch the sunset and the night-lights. Being summer we had to wait quite a long time but eventually the sun did go down and we got to see the spectacle that is Taipei by night.

A Final Culture Shock

We ended the day by shopping in Jason’s, a western specialty store and then going over to the Red Kitchen for a good steak. This was the final cultural adjustment my poor father had to make. They served warm beer in small glasses with ice-cubes. I think I have never seen Dad so shocked at the desecration of beer…The perils of travel I tell you!That’s it folks,

Until the next time,

Queenie and Paul

Dad in the East 3: From the Grand to Snake Alley

Hi All,

(Entrance to Snake Alley)

When people come to Taipei, there are certain places they must see. Two of those places are the Grand Hotel and Snake Alley. They represent vastly contrasting views of Taiwan. The first is a luxury hotel that presents a grand history of wealth and opulence and was commissioned by Madame Chiang Kai Shek herself. The second is a night market tagged onto a temple and the red light district in the heart of old Taipei.

(The Grand Hotel)

The Grand Hotel

We decided to head off to the Grand Hotel for the afternoon tea buffet and then go to Snake Alley to see the contrast afterwards. Of course, before actually entering snake alley we also visited the famous Longshan Temple too.

The foyer to the Grand Hotel is impressive. I read that it used to be one of the largest foyers in the world. It impresses all first time visitors. The foyer is decorated in a rich red carpet and the typical Chinese décor adds to the opulence. Dad and Yvonne were no different to anyone else visiting for the first time. It took them ten minutes to get through the door. Yes, they thought it was amazing.

Well once they got through the door we found the restaurant on the left side of the foyer where the afternoon tea buffet would be. Of course we made reservations but being a Tuesday it was hardly necessary. There were plenty of chairs available.

We made ourselves comfortable in our seats and while Dad and Yvonne continued to be amazed by the size of the foyer and the whole layout of the hotel, I decided to start eating. The food was spectacular Chinese cuisine with some Japanese sushi thrown in. I don’t remember there being too many western dishes available.

In the background were two people strumming away on traditional Chinese instruments. We really felt that we had been taken back a few decades to some great and grand colonial era.

(Two Musicians)

Sitting opposite us was a family with a young lady who has Downs Syndrome. Yvonne has a nephew who also suffers from Downs and therefore has a lot of compassion and understanding for people with this Syndrome. She of course made friends with the family and told them about her own nephew. She said these families like to know that they are not alone in the world and that people with Downs also like to know other people with the same condition. So we took a picture of her, got her address and promised to return a picture to her of Sean, Yvonne’s nephew.

(Dad, Yvonne and Family)

Well, after sitting and eating for more than an hour, Dad and Yvonne went exploring in the hotel. It is almost like a museum and they do allow tourists to wander around the public areas. We must have stayed there for quite some time looking around. After Dad and Yvonne bought some trinkets and wandered around for an hour we left the hotel and headed out to Wenhua District where Snake Alley and Longshan are located.

Longshan Temple

We first spent some time in Longshan Temple. Once again this is usually a major cultural adjustment for most Westerners. The busyness of these large temples is something to behold. The place was half full, not bad considering it was a Tuesday afternoon. Patrons were practicing the traditional worship rituals that included doing Bai Bai prayers with incense, throwing down lucky beads and determining their fortunes in other ways.

(People Worshipping in Longshan Temple)

Dad being a builder was interested in the intricacy of the carvings on the wall. Longshan temple is old and impressive. He also got chatting with an elderly man about the state of the world. This man couldn’t speak much English but did want to introduce Buddhism to us, and the importance of peace on Earth.

(Longshan Temple)

Snake Alley

When Dad and Yvonne tired of watching the different rituals, we went across the road to the Snake Alley night market. Before we entered the Alley we met a very friendly vendor who was only too happy to introduce herself and her wares. She is typical of the vendors in Taiwanese night markets who serve with happy faces and do not try to rip off foreigners.

After leaving the vendor we finally went inside Snake Alley. Dad has longed to come to this night market for many years. When I first came to Taiwan he had a friend who came here on a business trip and told him about the place. Ever since then he wanted to come see for himself. Fortunately we never saw any snakes being slaughtered live but we did see a video at one of the stores showing how they do it. This utterly disgusted Dad as they pull the heart out of the snake while the snake is still alive.

The video below shows an inside view of snake alley outside one of the many many fish restaurants. Lots of seafood is sold alongside the snake meat and blood. Anyway, it gives you an excellent overview of the inside of the alley. This is on a Tuesday night so it was not too busy.

We spent a good time walking through the market and came to the end all hot and flustered. At the end of the walk we found a small fruit juice shop where we paused for some refreshments and just watched the crowd go by. It was here that Dad gave me his comments on the place.

We finally ended the evening by going back out the main entrance of the market and walking through the small allies that are the heart of the red light district in this small neighborhood. I was actually quite surprised we were offered some “tea” because Yvonne was with us. On second thoughts we should have gone in and had a chat so Dad and Yvonne could see the other side of Taipei, but we didn’t. It was an interesting way to the end the day.

We finally got home at around 9:00 pm after a very busy and rewarding day.

Until the next time,

Queenie and Paul

Dad in the East 2: A Day in the Clouds

A trip to Wulai, South of Taipei....

(Dad and Yvonne in Wulai)

Getting There

After Dad and Yvonne had been in country for a few days, they wanted to get out of the city and into the country. So we decided to go to Wulai, a small Atayal village nestled beneath a waterfall about an hour South of Taipei. So we caught the MRT to Hsin Tien and jumped on the bus.

The weather on the day started out great but as we got closer to Wulai the weather started to come in and the rain came. A little summer rain in Taipei is not enough to deter intrepid travelers like us. And besides, we were already in Wulai.

Of course the bus ride as usual was stunning. Driving on road that runs to Wulai in the valley next to the river is beautiful. The natural beauty of the road up to Wulai amazed both Dad and Yvonne. It is always difficult to believe that such places exist when living in the congestion of Taipei. A little effort is all that is needed and a person can be away from the bustling crowds.

(On the road to Wulai)

The Atayal Village

After a 90-minute journey we arrived in Wulai. We walked through the small, narrow streets and Dad and Yvonne tinkered around the little shops buying some trinkets and knick-knacks. Yvonne bought a traditional Atayal hat that she wore all the way on the Journey.

What I haven’t seen there before was the Atayal museum. The Atayal people used to be headhunters apparently. And the village is like any other tourist village in the world. But never the less, it is quaintly nestled in the valley with the river running next to it. While we were there we also tried some special almond milk. I remember thinking it was heavenly. Dad and Yvonne also stopped and chatted with lots of the local folk. Of course this was challenging but I managed to translate for them.

(Dad and Yvonne outside the Museum)


(New Friends)

After hanging out in the village for about an hour, we caught a taxi to the waterfall. The taxi driver was a hoot. He told us that he had a wife but that he also had a number of girlfriends. He also mentioned that his wife didn't seem to mind too much and he said that is the way of a real man.

The Top of the Waterfall

(Dad and Yvonne at the Top)

We finally got to the waterfall. A cable car takes people to the top of the waterfall where there is a restaurant, pond and some other activities. We decided to eat at the top so bought the cable car tickets and tickets for lunch

The cable car ride is always fun but it was the first time I was doing it in the rain. Dad and Yvonne also managed to make friends with a bunch of kids in the cable car and, even when we arrived at the top, managed to initiate a language exchange. It was really amusing. We spent some time looking at the view from the cable car station and then headed off for lunch.

(Language Exchange Partners)

The coy fish in all the ponds fascinated Dad and Yvonne and so getting to the hotel took a lot longer than we thought it would. We finally arrived and had a great traditional Taiwanese lunch. We had a great time just relaxing in the hotel dining room.

(Dad Feeding the Coy)

(Lunch)

Nearly Headless Paul

My one abiding memory from Wulai will always be my first trip there. Queenie first took me there in 2000. At that time there was a small amusement park at the top of the falls. In the theme park was a roller coaster that seemed a bit small but the attendant assured me that I could go on it. So I did. Well, I remember going over one of the rises on the roller coaster and as we came down the other side I saw a steel bar running across the tracks precisely at the height of my head. I managed to duck really quickly and kept as low as I could for the rest of the way. I don’t think the roller coaster is there anymore.

The Obstacle Course

After the meal we went walking on some of the trails at the top of mountain. There is also an obstacle course so we decided to try our luck on the course. We used a considerable amount of energy pulling ourselves over the different obstacles but it was fun. I was most impressed with my father who, even though had a sore knee, still managed to climb over the obstacles.

(Dad on the Obstacle Course)

After walking around at the top for sometime the rain started to come down in buckets. We had to flee. By the time we found some shelter we were completely drenched. Bt by that stage we were really in a rush to get home because we needed to meet Queenie’s family for dinner. So we trudged through the rain to the cable car station.

(The Weather Turned)

The End of the Day

We took another 70 minutes on the bus to get back to Gongguan and then walked through the university home. It was a great day in the clouds above the waterfall. Everyone usually has a great time there. If you have some time it is a great day trip. You might even try the hot-springs, which are also great but we never got to try

Anyway, that's it for this time

See our Taipei and Taiwan Travel Guide for more day trips outside Taipei

Dad in the East 1: The First Few Days

Hi All,

(Paul and Dad in our Alley)

Arriving

I (Paul) have now lived in Taiwan for nearly nine years. Queenie and I have known each other for eight of those nine years and been married a little over five years. In all this time the only person from my family to visit me was my mother so of course, when my dad said he wanted to come over to see us we were thrilled.

Dad and his wife Yvonne came when it was best for me (after my exams) in the middle of the summer heat. Taipei in summer can be hot, but we have air-conditioners in our homes here (unlike South Africa) so the heat is bearable.

Dad and Yvonne flew into Taipei on a typical summers day. I (Paul) went down to the airport to meet them and of course we were excited. When they finally came out of the gates they had big wide grins on their faces and I think they never really knew what to expect. Here they were, the first time in the East, and far from anything they had experienced before. Of course, before we got into the cab to drive home, they needed a cup of coffee. So we did! They also wanted to stretch their legs since those flights from South Africa to Taipei are long and convoluted.

After coffee we got into one of the hotel taxis and headed off home. They were bristling with questions about Taipei and Taiwan. Taipei is a magic city and Taiwan an amazing country. And we love to have visitors and to show them around. They were going to be here in Taiwan for two weeks and spend one week in Hong Kong. Of course, we had a schedule planned but it would be up to them. I (Paul) had also taken a couple of weeks off work to spend with them.

During the taxi ride home I managed to give them a brief introduction to this country we love, but they were more amazed by the sheer congestion of homes and streets. It is difficult to convey to people the level of congestion in Taipei and Taiwan. To think that this country has (I think) in excess of 24 million people on a little stretch of land that at its longest is about 400 km and widest is about 300 km is difficult. The only way to understand it is to come and see for your self!

I think they had trepidations about the place in which we lived and thought we lived in a shoebox. After navigating the taxi through the alleys and lanes to our home, they were shocked by how big it is. My father kept on saying he expected something smaller.

The first day with them was very relaxed. We just sat around the house and talked about things in South Africa. Of course we compared the economies and the living standards and the crime rates and the congestion. These are the things travelers do. We always seem to use the place in which we were born or have lived for a long time as the measuring yardstick for all other experiences. Having lived in Taiwan for a long time now I am out of the habit of comparing Taiwan to South Africa and compare everything to Taiwan. Taiwan is my new yardstick.

To Gongguan and Back Again

After relaxing at home we took Dad and Yvonne for a walk through the Taiwan University grounds, which is at the back of our home. The Taiwan University (Tai-Da) is a green belt in the city. It has a lot of vegetation and greenery. There is even a pond with ducks and fish and it is a great place to let people walk off jet-weary feet.



After that we headed out into the Gongguan night market on Roosevelt Road. We spent some time hanging out in a teashop that had a great view of the streets. Dad and Yvonne could not stop staring at the motorcycles and the people. Gongguan on a Saturday night is impressive. There are just so many people. Sometimes I am amazed we can walk through the market, but somehow the crowd moves and we move with them.


(Gongguan Night Market)

I must confess that when I (Paul) first came to Taipei, I used to be amazed by the congestion too. When I first came here I lived in the Happy Family II hostel on the corner of Chung Shan North Road and Civil Boulevard. I used to walk over the bridge (that has since been knocked down) between the train station and Shin Kong Mitsukoshi department store and just stare at the people. So Dad and Yvonne’s surprise at the congestion of people did not surprise me at all.

After walking through the market we got them a helping of gua-bau (Chinese hamburger) and zhong zi (traditional food eaten during the Dragon Boat Festival). Now both these foods can look rather odd to a Western person and we think it was with much skeptism that they ate the food. To give them credit they did seem to enjoy it at the end and they were full, which is important I guess.


(Zhong zi and Gua-bau)

The Flower and Jade Market

On the second day, the Sunday, they didn’t want a hectic schedule. They did want breakfast and asked what we had! Of course, we don’t cook and so we had nothing! They were shocked. They wanted toast. There was none! They wanted to buy us a toaster, but we said there was no need as we would never use it. Rather, we went down stairs to our local breakfast shop and got them some egg rolls, hash browns and fried carrot cakes. Once again they were amazed by the food and what we ate on a regular diet.

So after our hearty breakfast we headed off to the Chien Kuo flower market and jade market. Dad and Yvonne are very used to the nurseries in South Africa but here in Taipei, if we want to buy flowers, we go to the Chien Kuo flower market. They have all variety of flowers and trees including orchids and bonsai. Yvonne and my father were so impressed with the flower market that on their second Sunday in Taipei we took them there again. My father also bought us a wonderful water fountain as a belated wedding gift that stands proudly in our living room.


(Dad and a Bonsai Tree in the Chien Kuo Flower Market)

The jade market was also a unique experience for them. There is not much jade in South Africa and even the jade in Taiwan can be expensive. Unfortunately, if you don’t know what you are looking at you could very easily buy fake jade (which is common). To buy jade in Taiwan it is best to find someone who knows about jade (not us) and ask them for help.

The Subway and Church

My Dad and Yvonne were also curious about the MRT system in Taiwan. So I took them to the above ground rail and we took a ride through the city to the zoo, and back again. Once again the level of organization, cleanliness and the way in which people are respectful of each other even though it is crowded amazed them.


(On the Mucha MRT)


In the evening we headed off to Church. There my Dad and Yvonne met many of our close friends and they were fortunate because that evening our Church had their outdoor café. They had the opportunity to mix and mingle with a lot of the people.



So the first few days for them were a success. The crowds amazed them and the friendliness of the Taiwanese people stunned them. The general cleanliness of most places was unexpected and we think (hope) that those two days did not shell shock them too much.

Until the next time everyone,

Ciao

Queenie and Paul

Istanbul Reunion - A Pictorial

Here is the slide show of some of our pictures of our trip to Istanbul, Turkey in February 2007. It was great seeing my sister, brother-in-law, nephew and mom. We had been to Istanbul before, but going back is always great.



For full size images, please follow the link below:

http://picasaweb.google.com/durbanbay/Istanbul

You can also see our Istanbul 2007 videos here:

http://www.youtube.com/view_play_list?p=2497DC39055AC740

Thank you for reading all our posts and thank you for your friendship and love. The table of contents for the travelog is below with easy links to each entry:

• Istanbul Reunion 1: Six Years On!
• Istanbul Reunion 2: To the Pera Palas and back again
• Istanbul Reunion 3: The Shores of Marmara
• Istanbul Reunion 4: The Kultuur Park
• Istanbul Reunion 5: A Day in Sultanahmet
• Istanbul Reunion 6: Goodbye Turkey…

Hope you all enjoy.

Until the next trip then.....

Queenie and Paul

Istanbul Reunion 6: Goodbye Turkey…

All good things must come to an end and saying goodbye to family is especially hard.

Goodbye Mom.

Our first goodbye was to Mom who returned to London on the Sunday before we left. We were due to leave the following Wednesday. On the morning of Mom’s departure, Judith and Ahmet took us to this great restaurant where they served an awesome buffet breakfast. The restaurant was in an old fortress or something similar and still had the castle battlements. It was a great place to eat.



It was then that the reality of the impending departures really hit us but then we know that it only means there will be a future hello. We tried to spend the time constructively talking about the time we had spent together and the great time we wanted to spend with each other in the future. But the time passed all too quickly and we had to leave.

We took Mom to the airport in the afternoon and the security measures were stunning. While we were waiting for the plane we spent our final moments joking around and drinking coffee. The time together had come to a rather abrupt and all too sudden end.

Of course there were tears, but there was also joy that we had reconnected and that we had more shared experiences and more memories together. My nephew was sad to see his Aiya leave. He never says goodbye to people. He has said to many goodbyes in his short life.

Of course when mom left we promised to see her in London during Chinese New Year 2008. We will indeed be going home to the motherland then.


Goodbye Ahmet

After Mom left, Ahmet decided to drive us into Taksim for a few beers and some food. As we said earlier, Taksim is a great hangout. We loved being there and walking around the neighborhood. This time they were trying to find some games for Tibet. We were unsuccessful but the restaurant was wonderful, the beers chilled, the food great and conversation uplifting.

Ahmet was due to leave on the Monday morning. We asked him to wake us before he left so we could say goodbye. He didn’t. This is Ahmet’s way.

We were happy to spend the time with him. For Queenie to meet him for the first time was great and for me (Paul) to see him for the first time after 10 years was wonderful. We hope the next time we meet will be less than 10 years and that we can see him in Taiwan soon.


Goodbye Judith and Tibet

Our final day in Turkey was on a Tuesday. Judith took us to her school and we had breakfast together. Afterwards, while we waited for her to finish, we went down to a quiet park in the middle of Istanbul. There were birds and a lake, but it was winter so the park was a bit barren. As usual there was a smart restaurant overlooking the lake. We went there, had a few cups of Turkish tea and then wanted to leave. They didn’t charge us. Said it was for free. What a great country.

We went back to Judith’s school where we observed two of her classes. They were fun to watch. Kids are the same everywhere (Taiwan or Turkey) and watching them try their best to learn English is always fun. They seem to derive so much pleasure from it.

We spent the last night together at the restaurant in the Kultuur park. We ate great food and had a great conversation.

The following morning we woke-up and said a difficult goodbye to Judith and Tibet. They promised to come to Taiwan in Summer 2008. Here is hoping it all works out and that they can make it.


The Journey Home

So the journey home was also tough. On the way from Istanbul to Frankfurt there was a thunderstorm that seemed to get a little too close for comfort. Actually some lightning seemed to strike right outside the plane. We slept practically all the way from Frankfurt to Hong Kong and arrived as sick as two dogs as the people behind us had the flu and coughed all over us.

We landed in Hong Kong on a Thursday morning. Queenie left her iPod on the plane so we took a long time to get out of the airport as they had to recover it. In the evening I (Paul) had to attend a lecture on corporate finance. All good things do indeed come to an end…


Final Thoughts…..

Our family is truly international. My mother lives in England, my sister, nephew and brother-in-law in Turkey (and different parts of Turkey as my brother-in-law is on the ships), my father lives in South Africa and we live in Taiwan. Queenie’s father works in China and so we truly are in international.

Although we are a family apart, we are a family close at heart. We continue to love and care for each other even though the times we spend together are short. It is when time is a treasured commodity and not in abundance that you truly start to understand the impact and depth of your love for those you care for. Living apart is tough for us all but the love is real.

I guess the greatest lesson from this is that time is precious, and time with loved ones even more so. So next time you get mad with someone you love, put aside your differences and your pride, say you are sorry and get over it.

Time is short, too short.

Until the next journey then!

Queenie and Paul

Istanbul Reunion 5: A Day in Sultanahmet

Hi All,


(On a horse carriage in Sultanahmet)

Why Sultanahmet?

Sultanahmet is the must see district of Istanbul! It is the main tourist district with three of the biggest tourist attractions in Istanbul: The Topkapi Palace, Aya Sofia and the Blue Mosque. Each building and museum has its own special attraction that makes it worthwhile. The great thing though is that you can see all three sights within a day (but that would be very quick and there are also other things to see and do in Sultanahment). This time we just spent time visiting Aya Sofia and the Blue Mosque. We gave Topkapi a miss.


(Aya Sofia)


(The Blue Mosque)

The first time we went to Istanbul, we spent an incredible amount of time in Sultanahmet (at least three ~ four days). There is a lot to see and do there and since it is one of the main tourist sites it is relatively easy to get there (unless you are coming from my sister's house).

Since we had already been there once we weren't too fussed to go there again but then, after we found we had nothing to do one day, we dragged off Mom and Tibet for a crazy journey to the famous district. Once again getting there was a 90-minute journey on a bus, train and tram!

Another Long Journey Ends

By the time we arrived we were exhausted. Queenie wasn't feeling very good so we decided to find a café, get some refreshments and relax for a short while. We were in no rush as Mom and Tibet had also been to this area a few times before.

We found a great little café buried in the ancient walls of one of the buildings with a great view of Aya Sofia. We sat outside, ordered the usual Turkish tea and watched the crowd go by. It was still cold but sunny so we were enjoying the day out. We weren’t in a rush to see everything.



Memory of an Arrest

We have great memories of this place from the first time we visited in 2001. However, one of the most shocking memories occurred outside Aya Sofia. On one of the days I (Paul) was standing outside Aya Sofia where I was approached by an illegal street side vendor selling postcards. He started showing the postcards too me but I was impetuous and not understanding him reach for the postcards and took them from him to look at them. In a flash we were surrounded by police who handcuffed him, threw him in the back of the car and left us standing there in shock with me holding the postcard.

We were hoping this time not to cause too many waves and that we could get into and out of Aya Sofia without too much trouble. So, after our break we decided to start moving around a bit more. We headed off for Aya Sofia. The parks outside this landmark are beautiful and we really enjoyed the walk through the park and looking at the flowers and trees.

Horse Carriage

On the way to Aya Sofia we were distracted by some horses and a carriage. These were the latest tourist attraction (they weren't there six years ago). Of course Tibet wanted to go for a ride and so we did. We negotiated the price (sorry can't remember what it was) jumped on the carriage and off we went. Now these horses for a time run on the road between the cars, buses and trams. It can be quite scary. After a short time though, the horses turned off into the park beneath Topkapi palace. While on the road we managed to greet Istanbul (see video below).



So after a 20-minute hair-raising journey on the horse carriage, which we all thoroughly enjoyed, we were delivered back to the entrance of Aya Sofia alive.



Aya Sofia

After some debate we decided to go into the cathedral/mosque/world heritage site. Aya Sofia was apparently the first cathedral (Church) ever built. After the fall of the Istanbul it was converted into a Mosque. When Ataturk, the father of modern Turkey, took over Turkey from the Ottomans, he decommissioned it and turned it into a museum. Since Muslims do not have any images or representations in their religion, they had painted over the walls. Many ancient paintings have since been discovered on the original walls of the museum and so there is a lot of work being done to uncover the paintings so the world can see them now.

Aya Sofia is an impressive building. The main hall is huge and spacious. There are also many nooks and crannies which one can explore. It is certainly a must see for any first time visitors to Istanbul. We spent an hour and half inside Aya Sofia. We thought that would be enough.

The Blue Mosque

After leaving Aya Sofia, we got a bite to eat for lunch and then took a very short walk over to the Blue Mosque. This is another must-see structure and its free. We walked across the park to the Blue Mosque and went inside. There is no entrance fee but you have to take your shoes off. Also, non-Muslims are only allowed in the rear portion of the Mosque as the front is used for praying. You are also not allowed to sit on the floor at the back and of course they ask you don’t make a lot of noise.

The Blue Mosque is also beautiful and spacious inside. There is not much to see except stand there and take in the space and architecture of the building. We never went in at prayer time (I don’t think we can get in at prayer time but not sure) so there were only a few people praying in the front part of the Mosque. We stayed inside for about 15-minutes and then left as quietly as we came in.

The Carpet Street

After leaving the Blue Mosque we took a walk down to the carpet market at the bottom of the Blue Mosque, down some stairs. When we went to Turkey the first time many of the market store owners wanted to show us their carpets. We were fairly honest with them telling them we didn’t want to buy any carpets. They still insisted we go inside with them and take a look (I guess they thought we would change our minds). Unfortunately for them we really didn’t want to buy carpets but at each carpet show we were treated like royalty and were given tea and snacks.

This time however we were invited inside the stores but when we declined it was accepted. The first time we went to Turkey the country was in economic decline. Things are better now so we weren’t so desperately sought after.

We spent some time walking down the street, looking at the different shops. At the entrance to the market is a rather large outdoor café. Well of course after our meander through the streets we went to get some refreshments before the long journey home.

After taking another small break we headed out home. Another 90-minute journey saw us arriving back in time to meet Judith after work. Once again another wonderful day with Mom and Tibet had come to an end.

Thats it for now.

Ciao

Queenie and Paul

Istanbul Reunion 4: The Kultuur Park

Hi All,


(Mom and Tibet in the Kultuur Park)

A First Dinner in the Hubbly-Bubbly

A short fifteen minute drive from my sister Judith's house is the Kultuur Park. This little park is a great place to drink tea, eat authentic Turkish food, smoke a hooka or just spend time relaxing.

On the first day in Istanbul, my sister took us to her school. We spent time in the afternoon playing with our nephew Tibet and in the evening we went to the Kultuur Park for dinner. On one side of the park is a bunch of traditional hubbly-bubbly restaurants. These restaurants are typically small and are geared for the Turkish men to come in and smoke hookas.

The décor inside is very simple and no one inside speaks any English nor are there any English menus so it is best to go there with someone who can speak some Turkish. We randomly selected a restaurant. It was really cold outside but inside was warm and welcoming and the perfect place for a meal.

Judith ordered some simple but incredibly delicious food that arrived very quickly. We also got reacquainted with the ayraan (Turkish yoghurt) and some other dishes that we had eaten in Turkey before.



While we were waiting for our food, three men walked inside, sat at the table opposite us and ordered tea and three hookas. It was the first time we had actually seen people smoking them and so we were quite interested to see how it all worked. Well, it wasn’t that exciting and I guess, instead of hanging out in bars, the men in Turkey would hang out in these places and smoke. Not much wrong with that.



The waitress, realizing we were tourists, also gave us a wonderful tour of their small kitchen. The stove was a coal stove, not electric, and the kitchen really looked very rustic, but it was very clean.

A Second Visit

On another day, after visiting the Marmara sea, my Mom and Tibet took us there for a few hours in the afternoon. We got to play some soccer with Tibet but unfortunately, after about 10 minutes, the ball landed up in a thorn bush and went flat. Well, what else could we do but stop off in another hubbly-bubbly, eat some snacks and drink some tea. And so we did!

The weather on that day was fantastic so we sat outside and chatted. We played some games with Tibet and just spent some great time with the family. We also got to see a little more of the park.


(All of us in the Kultuur Park)

The Silk Road Runs Through

On one side of the park are these ancient bridges and roads that cross over a river that runs into the Marmara Sea. One of Judith's colleagues told us that those bridges and roads were part of the old Silk Road that went all the way to Beijing. Well I doubt the traders went from there to Beijing but they certainly went some of the way.

The hill behind the Kultuur Park was known as the screaming or wailing hill (can’t remember the exact name) because the hill was so steep that when the camels went up it they would scream and wail in agony. Poor camels! Actually the hill was fairly steep. We had to drive up it whenever we went to the center of Istanbul.

On the river side of the Kultuur Park is a boardwalk and a few boats anchored to the pier. There were many seagulls flying around and it was just a great time spent watching the birds and relaxing.



A Final Dinner - Return to the Hubbly-Bubbly

The last night in Istanbul we spent with my sister in the same hubbly-bubbly we went to on the first evening. We ate the same food. It was a great way to spend the last night in Istanbul. It was great just relaxing and chatting after all we don't know when we will see each other again so we made the time count.

All in all we would say the Kultuur Park is a great place to spend an afternoon and/or early evening. It is relaxing, there is not much to do except sit and chat or read a book and drink tea and eat great, authentic Turkish food. If you are in the area, why not head out there and take a look.

Anyway, that's it for this time.
Take care all
Queenie and Paul